Abington, VA Coastal Communities and Homes

Discovering Abingdon - American Dream Town

It’s such a lucky find you might not really want to tell anyone about it, this treasure trove of 18th- and 19th-century Southern culture, architecture, charm and gentility, all wrapped up in a 21st century aesthetic.

Now, more years later than I’m willing to admit, I’m on assignment to rediscover what Abingdon offers its lucky visitors. In a word, that’s plenty. Now the site of my grandmother’s former seminary has a café perched on it from which I can view much of Abingdon’s 20-block National Historic District. My return to The Martha, as the 62-room inn is locally known, will see me having an afternoon of heavenly treatments in her brand new spa. And, watching a play in the darkened Barter Theatre, I’ll dream once again of the stage. All that just proves that whether it’s me or Abingdon, things do and do not change.

Abingdon has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to accommodations. It was hard to choose among the several inns and bed and breakfasts but I settled on A Tailor’s Lodging. It was perfect, neatly located one street away from the historic district, the Barter Theatre and the Virginia Creeper Trail. The impeccably comfortable, three-room inn is a lovingly restored tailor’s quarters dating to 1840. The innkeeper, Rick Humphreys, has local roots dating to the 1700s. He is a font of information on local history, current attractions, restaurants, out-of-the-way haunts and everything else.

“Most people come for an evening of theater and a day on the Creeper Trail,” he says. “They enjoy as much dining out as they can stand – we have wonderful restaurants.”

My experience included all of that, plus some shopping and antiquing, with visits to several arts venues.

After a great night’s sleep in my fireplace-lighted room at A Tailor’s Lodging, I began my the new day with an invigorating walk on the Virginia Creeper Trail where I saw grazing horses, lowing cows and geese flying through a misty dawn. Back at the inn, fresh-brewed coffee and a fantastic omelet were waiting for me. Next, deep into exploring the historic district on foot, I trod herringbone-patterned brick sidewalks going in and out of shops of interest in an architectural landscape that is decidedly nostalgic and charming. I found the best of apparel and accessory boutiques, marvelous gift and housewares. Incidentally, I also uncovered the two best secrets in town.

Before heading to The Spa at the Martha (a story that deserves its own feature), I wanted to see what was brewing for dinner at The Tavern, unequivocally considered by locals as the best place to eat. It’s found across the street from the cave Daniel Boone stayed near on his 1760 expedition to the area. The oldest building in town, The Tavern was built in 1779 for stagecoach travelers. One glance at the menu revealed where I’d be when evening fell.

Theater, galleries and open artists’ studios account for Abingdon’s reputation for supporting the arts. It’s been named one of the 100 best towns for arts in the country. The William King Arts Center, overlooking Abingdon from its 1913 former school building, is a partner of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts and one of the naion’s 750 museums accredited by the American Association of Museums. Center galleries feature everything from the region’s most compelling contemporary works and historical decorative pieces to art from around the world. There are acres of outdoor sculpture gardens and a museum store.

Significantly, Betsy White is the author of “Great Road Style” and the longtime center executive director. Her handsome, historically informative work photographically depicts and examines the region’s traditional arts and crafts.

Right off West Main Street along the railroad tracks, I visited the fascinating Washington County Historical Society. Next door is the Arts Depot, a freight station built in the late 1850s, burned in the Civil War and rebuilt just after. A successful adaptive re-use in the 1990s sees it today as a muliti-media center that combines resident artists’ studios and galleries. A neon-lighted artist’s palate drew me into the Starving Artist Café which for 22 years has provided creative gustatory delights. Its walls are hung with regularly changing exhibitions of local artists’ work. Noticed in the pages of The Wall Street Journal, it’s currently being relocated, but should be in operation again soon.

National Geographic Traveler magazine touts Abingdon as its “Small American Dream Town 2006.” And why not: great climate, only about 7,000 in population, educated citizenry, great medical care, recreational outlets, active adult communities, mountain gated communities, mountain golf course real estate, mountain retirement communities, etc… Pat McDonald of Callebs Realty told me it’s still possible to buy an older home of some distinction near the historic district for $300,000, while better homes similarly located cost closer to twice that. One caveat: These don’t come on the market often. There are a few newer subdivisions of fine, even palatial, homes selling from $400,000 to $1

The Martha Washington Inn

Built as private residence in 1830, the home was converted into a women’s college in 1858 and later served as a Civil War hospital. Today, The Martha Washington is Abingdon’s centerpiece. Antiques decorate 62 rooms and suites in a memorable inn where visitors are treated as an honored guests. Fabulous paintings and objects d’art abound throughout. The dining room may have Abingdon’s most romantic tables – many in their own diminutive wall-enclosed islands of privacy. Be sure to rock on the front porch and notice the historic foyer wallpaper – 32 strips printed in France using 1,690 individual blocks and depicting an 1834 scenic painting of America. 150 West Main Street; 888-999-8078; www.marthawashingtoninn.com.

The Spa at The Martha Washington Inn

Beautifully conceived and expertly staffed, the spa indulges the senses with treatments that are as special as they come. Consider: pure rose oil, the Royal Tub, travertine floors, Murano glass foot tubs, high ceilings, skin care by Jurlique, couples massage, an advanced Life Fitness area and the natatorium, and an 89-degree salt water pool in its own glassed-in enclosure. As a visitor to many spas, I can assert definitively: The Martha is special. 150 West Main Street; 276-628-5279; www.marthawashingtoninn.com.

The Barter Theatre

Robert Porterfield saved the town from a slow fade to black in 1933 when he founded the theater. The barter system – a “ham for Hamlet” – let him feed his actors and put locals in seats. Designated State Theater of Virginia in 1946, the world-famous Barter has nurtured such talents as Ernest Borgnine, Hume Cronyn, Gregory Peck, Patricia Neal, Ned Beatty, Gary Collins and Barry Corbin, to name a few. Celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2008, the Barter is now the longest-running professional equity theater in the nation and produces shows on two stages 12 months a year and pleases some 160,000 patrons a year. Directly across from the Martha Washington Inn on Main Street. Box Office: 276-628-3991; www.bartertheatre.com.

The Virginia Creeper Trail

The Virginia Creeper Trail

Once a mountain railroad, the Virginia Creeper Trail winds from Abingdon to Damascus towards the Virginia-North Carolina border at Whitetop Station. It’s a gentle 34-mile ride – or hike. Immensely popular with families and individual riders, the Creeper is lauded as one of the most beautiful trails on the continent. Area operators rent bikes and shuttle riders to and from the trail. Leave Abingdon in the morning and come back in time for a well-deserved dinner in one of the many great restaurants. www.vacreepertrail.org.

The Highlands Festival

During the first two weeks of August every year, thousands come to Abingdon’s famed Virginia Highlands Festival. At this annal event, fine arts and crafts representative of the vibrant artistic traditions of the Southeast abound. Under big-top tents, 45,000 square feet of antiques are in a display that may have no equal, and experts conduct mini-seminars on a variety of topics. Performances at the festival grounds and in town include dance, story telling and other literary events, plays, magicians, and music, from gospel to Celtic to entire symphony orchestras. There are local history portrayals and participants can take home, garden, even kitchen tours. This is serious fun for kids of all ages and there’s a host of daily special workshops for small fry. www.VaHighlandsFestival.org.

Tea Anyone ?

Camella’s Remember When Tea Parlor and Niceties in the heart of the historic district is a perfectly civilized sitting room that serves gourmet black, green, white, herbal and African red milk teas, finger sandwiches and scrumptious desserts. Bridal parties, mothers and daughters, lovers and conversationalists welcome.

   Well deserving of its star reputation amongst locals, The WildFlour Bakery and Café is in a farm house built in 1896 by the great grandfather of baker Donna McIntyre’s husband. Customers can view the original deed on the front wall while perusing a case filled with delectable pastries, breads, cakes and cookies. Fresh unadulterated ingredients rule in the café’s soups, sandwiches and salads. With changing weekly selections and a decidedly upscale weekend menu, the interior and ambience are true to the last century but the wine list is thoroughly modern. To visit the Wildflour, follow East Main Street which becomes U.S. 11-Lee Highway; 276-676-4221.

The Best Breakfast
    The sky is not falling, but Chick-N-Little is the most dangerous restaurant in town. Thoroughly unassuming, this institution has been family-operated for more than 25 years and has, at least, the best breakfast in Abingdon. Sausage gravy and homemade biscuits. Classic club sandwiches, daily vegetables, it’s a paean to comfort food. Watch out. Frequented by attorneys, truck drivers, farmers and everyone else, it’s open six days a week from 6 a.m. through dinner. Walls are lined with vintage Abingdon ephemera from Barter Theatre posters to area postcards and local placards. Save the best for last – Coconut Cream pie – none better anywhere and dangerously addictive. 401 West Main Street; 276-628-6690.

 
By Elizabeth Barbour
Originally published in the Early Summer 2007 issue of Mountain Homes magazine